Donkey Box

43 threads in the archive

Based on 46 threads · 22 cited

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If your rig won't settle back to static balance after a tilt, suspect the connection to the junction box or out-of-tolerance junction box pins 8 9. Vibration usually has the same roots, so check for something loose or flexing in the top stage, baseplate, battery, lens or gimbal 19 20.

The questions 7

How do I tighten play in my Donkey Box stage?4 threads · latest 2025

In short

On a Donkey Box III, use the dedicated adjustment tool on the locking nuts for both axes, with a camera plate locked in 1. Then check the screws that hold the stage to the Junction Box 2.

How the pros do it

Lock a camera plate into the unit before you touch any tension adjustment 1.
For side-to-side play on a Donkey Box III, loosen the set screw with an allen key and pull the side knob 1. Then put the square-lug end of the tool on the locking nut and adjust 1.
For fore-and-aft play, use the wrench end of the tool on the locking nut on the underside of the unit 1.
If the jitter sits at the Junction Box, check the two small Phillips screws holding the bayonet piece and the four long lead screws to the Donkey Box 2. Also check the side-to-side and fore/aft set screws on a DB2, because loose ones let the top of the unit shift 2.
If play stays after everything is tight, look for stripped threads on the securing screws 2. The round connector piece between the bayonet and Junction Box can also have play that shows up under camera weight 2.
On a Master series stage with 1-2 mm of lateral slip, remove the adjustment knob and put stainless steel shims between the stage and the knob 3. Shims won't remove the stage's inherent flex, so a DBII or DBIII is the alternative 3.
On an ARRI Trinity TST-2, one 2025 thread says side-to-side play is fixed by tightening four screws on the donkey box 4. That thread is flagged as disputed and covers the TST-2 only 4.

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How do I mount motors and monitors on a Donkey Box rig?4 threads · latest 2025

In short

Put the motor driver on the GPI dovetail bracket that fits the Donkey Box 3 follow focus bracket 5. Keep anything mounted above the gimbal close to the center post and rebalance 6.

How the pros do it

Use the GPI dovetail bracket, which works only with the Donkey Box 3 follow focus mounting bracket 5. An adapter retrofits it to older Preston brackets and other systems with PRO hole patterns 5.
Attach the motor driver to the bracket with thumbscrews so it comes off quickly for handheld or crane work 5. Plastic thumbwheel screws give you a tool-free alternative to allen socket cap screws 5.
Think about mounting the focus unit on the camera instead of the sled 5. That keeps remote focus when you switch between rig, handheld, crane and dolly without repeated recalibration 5.
A Preston controller on the donkey box adds mass above the gimbal, so adjust camera and monitor placement to compensate 6. Mount parts as close to the center post as possible 6.
Start with the camera about one inch behind the center of gravity for static balance 6. Dynamic balance usually lands when the whole setup's center of gravity sits one to two inches behind the post 6.
Another option is a Betz Wave monitor on fixed bayonet connectors with hardwired connections, with the Donkey Box kept external 7. That setup cut about 2.5 inches from the camera plate to the center rod top 7.

Caution

One operator kept the Donkey Box external and did not mount it into the sled base, to avoid damage and keep the original parts as backup 7.

What changed

Earlier, in 2010, a Preston controller on the donkey box sat above the gimbal and you compensated with camera and monitor placement 6, today, in 2025, one Betz Wave setup removes the tall stack of electronics and Donkey Box from the sled 7.

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Why does my rig lose static balance after tilting?4 threads · latest 2022

In short

Most likely the connection between your donkey box and junction box is flexing or the junction box pins are out of tolerance, so the sled doesn't settle back to its original balance after a tilt 8 9.

How the pros do it

Swap the gimbal and battery bracket for other assemblies to rule them out 8. In one case that took about 6 hours in a workshop, and balance came back after the swaps 8.
Measure the conical pins in the upper junction box receiver, because one measured slightly out of tolerance in a documented case 8. The three-point conical mount acts like a three-legged stool if one pin rounds out or seats differently 9.
Check the donkey box to junction box connection for flex, since up to 0.056 inch was measured 8 9. When tilted, the connection binds and doesn't release cleanly on return to upright 8.
Look for play in the battery bracket assemblies, because a single knurled screw with two banana connectors showed significant play 8. Any component with play will move under load, so keep the arm to top stage connection rigid 8.
Watch your drop time, because the balance loss got worse with longer drop times on a rig set to 4 seconds 8.
If it persists after you've tested the other components, send the junction box to the manufacturer's service 9. A four-pin XCS/PRO adapter improved the backward tilt behavior in one case, though it did not fix the forward tilt error 8.

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Is the Donkey Box better than other top stages for my sled?4 threads · latest 2016

In short

No source ranks the Donkey Box above every other top stage 10 11. The original beats the 3A stage on fine fore/aft tuning 10, but its parts are hard to find today 10.

How the pros do it

The original Donkey Box has an internal vernier drive, so you can fine tune with the dovetail still clamped 10. The 3A stage uses direct gearing with coarse increments 10.
It has been out of production since the mid-1990s 10. The nylon worm gears on the X and Y controls can strip, and spares became unavailable 10.
It has a tool-free quick-release plate system 11. The Pro DB-3 needs a wrench or allen key only to mount and dismount, then gives tool-free coarse adjustment 11.
Dovetail plates are mechanically compatible across Donkey Box generations 1 through 3 and match CP standard dovetail width 10.
It takes interchangeable donkey boxes, battery racks and electronic components 12. Operators also trade parts, which helps with repairs on location 12.

Caution

On a 3A stage the camera can slip if you don't engage the separate locking screw 10. Stripped nylon worm gears can leave an original Donkey Box unusable when no spares exist 10.

Opinions differ here

Some question whether a tool-free quick-release is appropriate for a platform that gets repositioned often 11. Others see the tool-based mounting on the Pro DB-3 as a safety feature when gear moves between operators 11. Fans of the Betz Top Stage point to rapid camera mounting and unmounting without tools 11.

What changed

Earlier, in 2007, the comparison was the original Donkey Box against the 3A stage, with the vernier drive as its strength 10, while today, as of 2011, it is the Pro DB-3 against the Betz Top Stage, and the DB-3 is significantly improved over the DB-2 11.

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Can I fit a Donkey Box to my older sled?4 threads · latest 2014

In short

Often yes, but expect some custom work depending on your sled 13 14. Older rigs with standard post connectors need little or none, while a Master Series or MK-V needs a junction box or adaptors 15 13 14.

How the pros do it

Check your post connectors first 15. The Donkey Box 3 has four mounting screws like the 3A topstage, so it mounts on rigs with standard post connectors without a PRO junction box 15.
On a Master Series sled, bridge the different hole patterns with a custom junction box that also houses the connectors 13. Keep it at about 0.9 inches because of the large Size 2 LEMO connectors on the Master stage 13.
Plan on cutting and reconnecting wires at the post for that Master Series install 13. The sled can still be restored to its original configuration afterwards 13.
On an MK-V, the post mounting holes appear compatible with the Donkey Box 3/2/1 14. You may need an adaptor for two 15mm bars, a C-Spacer for the post top, cable management changes and longer screws 14.
If you run a jbox with a Preston mount on the stage, check clearance for larger Lemo connectors 14. Fix it with custom adapters or 90-degree cables 14.
Allow for height, since a thicker junction box plus the Donkey Box III raises the camera about 1 to 1.5 inches 13. Adjust the crane sled length or use low-profile mounting plates 13. PRO and XCS plates both work on the Donkey Box 3, and the thicker XCS plates add rigidity 15.

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Which camera plate fits my Donkey Box without slipping?4 threads · latest 2014

In short

Cam-jam plates are the one reported to work with both PRO DB2 and PRO DB3 donkey boxes 16. Cam-Tec plates may slip in a PRO DB2 because of their thickness 16.

How the pros do it

Check which box you have, because the Cam-jam plate is reported working on both the PRO DB2 and the PRO DB3 16.
If you want a Cam-Tec plate, know it is designed for Betz topstage systems and is low-profile and rigid with built-in rod mounts 16.
Test a Cam-Tec plate in a PRO DB2 before the shoot, because its thickness may stop proper clamping and cause slippage even when tightened to maximum 16.
If the plate still slides, put grip tape on it, which helped on XCS plates 17.
On the D-Box 3, XCS plates worked with the Lightweight II without clearance issues 17.
For a quick-release setup, the Cat Griller bolts to a Ronford quick-release plate and gives you tapped holes for the camera plate, like a donkey box without pan-tilt adjustment 18.

Opinions differ here

Reports on the Cam-Tec plate differ, and the thread itself is marked as disputed 16. One side says it fits Betz topstage systems, is rigid and works with Alexa models 16. The other side says its thickness can keep a PRO DB2 from clamping it, so it slips at maximum tightness 16.

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Where is the vibration on my rig coming from?4 threads · latest 2014

In short

Most often it comes from something loose or flexing: the top stage, baseplate, battery, lens or gimbal play 19 20. Start with the shake test and a lens check on a shoulder rig 20.

How the pros do it

If the vibration shows in recorded footage but not on the live monitor, suspect the top stage or baseplate rigidity 19. Squeeze-test the mounted baseplate and look for flex 19.
Rule out the lens by testing the camera on a shoulder rig 20. Long assemblies with adapters, mattes and accessories make lens mounting play worse 19.
Do the shake test: lift the whole rig and watch and listen for movement or noise 20. Then check the yoke-to-handle bolts, the collars at the top and bottom of the gimbal post with the provided wrench, and the screws on the top stage mounting area 20.
Adjust the donkey box threads with the special tool to cut side-to-side and front-to-back play 20. A little play when the gimbal is unloaded is normal 20.
Secure the battery with velcro on gold mount plates 20. A loose battery far down the post can send vibration up into the image 19, and its position on the post can excite resonance 21.
In low mode, a dual-rod monitor arm adds vibration 22. Move it to a normal low mode position or to the outer post to spread the mass along the post 22. A tether line under tension from the camera plate to the top of the inverted sled can also help 22.

Opinions differ here

One side says all vibration begins at the foot, so shoe cushioning matters a lot 21. The other says high-frequency vibration reflects structural resonance rather than operator technique 19. The 2007 thread adds that some manufacturers deny or downplay rigidity issues 19.

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Sources 22

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What operators found

Still argued about

Often in the same threads

Top Stage13, Monitor Bracket4, Low Mode6, MDR4, Follow Focus4, Dovetail Plate3, Master Series3, BFD3, Base Plate4

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