Base Plate

109 threads in the archive

Based on 119 threads · 41 cited

AI draft, not reviewedDraft, written by AI from the archive, every statement linked to its source — not yet reviewed.

No single base plate wins, because the right one depends on your camera body 1 2. An Alexa Studio needs the official ARRI plate, while Sony broadcast bodies do well on a rigid Baer-Bel or Chrosziel plate 2 3. Check your screws too: a Steadicam® Flyer24 LE base plate takes 1/4-20, but the Panavision Lightweight II needs non-standard 10-32 34 35.

The questions 8

Which baseplate works best for my camera?11 threads · latest 2024

In short

No single plate wins, because the right one depends on your camera body 1 2. Alexa Studio needs the official ARRI plate 2, while Sony broadcast bodies do well on a rigid Baer-Bel or Chrosziel plate 3.

How the pros do it

On an Alexa Studio, use the official ARRI baseplate, especially with 35mm or shorter lenses at faster movement speeds 2. Its flat bottom and different center of gravity make some third-party plates unreliable 2.
On a standard Alexa or Alexa Plus, third-party dovetail plates from Camera Positioning Systems or Cam-Jam work 2. Cinematic Precision makes a plate that covers both the Plus and the Studio 2.
On a Sony VCT-U14 setup, expect play in the stock plate 3. Baer-Bel makes a thinner, more rigid alternative, and the Chrosziel QuickLock Plate 130 gives no image jitter at roughly four times the Sony price 3.
On an XCS Top Stage sled with a broadcast camera, the Zalex Longplate costs about 300 USD and mounts straight into the sled dovetail without a separate VCT baseplate 4. The CamJam Railway plate with rods replaces the heavier Sony plate if you don't need lateral adjustment 4.
On a Canon 5D, the Zacuto universal plate leaves enough room at the back for a follow focus 5. Put the camera at the front of the plate with short lenses so the motor engages properly 5.
On an ALEXA 35 on a Flyer, the Apex plate saves about 1.5-2 inches of height compared with stacking a SAM plate on a Trinity dovetail 6. If you need to go cheap on small cameras with 15mm rails, a cheeseplate runs around sixty dollars 7.

Caution

One operator reported broken yoke forks on a Steadicam® Flyer gimbal under heavy camera loads, so inspect the gimbal regularly when you run heavy cameras 6.

Opinions differ here

Operators split on the Chrosziel plate 1 3. One side says it offers superior rigidity but is heavier and more expensive, with durability complaints about its swing-out lever 1. The other says the QuickLock Plate 130 stays tight over years of use with no image jitter 3.

What changed

Earlier, in 2004, operators fixed Sony mounting play by swapping to Sony-brand or aftermarket snap lock plates 1, today, in 2021, the Zalex Longplate mounts straight into the sled dovetail and removes the separate VCT baseplate 4.

Ask a follow-up

How do I mount my camera in low mode?7 threads · latest 2024

In short

Use a low-mode plate or bracket made for your camera body, mounted flush and as flat as you can get it 8 6. If no bracket exists, run the camera upside down and flip the image in post 9 10.

How the pros do it

Start with a bracket made for your body, because generic brackets from other camera models don't fit the 435 ES 9.
Keep the plate flush against both the camera bottom and the Steadicam® plate, since gaps between components add vibration 8.
On an ALEXA 35, all ARRI SAM plates have 3/8-inch threads and stack directly, and the Apex plate saves about 1.5-2 inches against a SAM plate plus Trinity dovetail 6. The Octamas bottom plate is described as the lightest and flattest option at about 262 g 11.
Don't rely on the camera handle alone, because the four small Aaton handle screws can slip under hard acceleration and braking 12. Heavy zooms or telephotos need extra support from underneath 12.
If you need to tilt the camera, a tilt stage mounted underneath the post gives more tilt range than a drop-in plate on top 13.
If the production allows flipping in post, running the camera upside down works without issues and saves bracket changes 10 8.

Caution

A low-mode baseplate can crush the fragile viewfinder focus knob on an Aaton if you don't position it carefully 12. Inspect the gimbal when you run heavy cameras, because one operator reported broken yoke forks on a Flyer 6.

Opinions differ here

Operators split on low mode versus upside-down 8 10. Most productions still prefer low-mode equipment despite the vibration 8. Others say upside-down runs without issues and that flipping in post is acceptable on most jobs 10.

What changed

Earlier, in 2007, traditional low-mode plates with gaps introduced vibration 8, today, in 2024, operators stack SAM plates or use the Apex plate to save 1.5-2 inches of height on the ALEXA 35 6.

Ask a follow-up

How do I add weight to my rig for a light camera?7 threads · latest 2022

In short

Mount a weight plate between the camera and the sled, or use a cage and baseplate that doubles as weight 14 15. For DSLR setups, the sources point to 7 to 15 pounds added via plates or blocks 15.

How the pros do it

Buy a plate from a maker such as Glidecam or Optical Support 15. Or have a machinist make custom stainless steel weight blocks, which is the cheaper route 15.
To build your own, drill a rectangular steel piece of about 3 by 10 inches with multiple mounting holes for roughly 5 pounds 16. Industrial metal suppliers sell blanks already close to that shape and weight, so you only drill 16.
Countersink the holes so the plate sits flush against the camera or baseplate 16.
On a Steadicam® sled, bolt the plate into the 1/4-20 hole that normally takes the camera, then mount the camera on the plate 14. You can also put it between the camera and the dovetail on a quick-release plate, so the weight stays on when you swap cameras 16.
Use the multiple holes to move the camera and fine-tune its center of gravity 16 14.
A DSLR cage or baseplate adds weight and gives you mounting points for accessories 14. A cage with baseplate and rails keeps the rig rigid when you add a mattebox, focus motor and v-lock plate 15.

Caution

Don't hang a heavy plate off the camera's bottom threads alone, because they can be stressed beyond their design capacity, especially in low mode on cameras with weak mounting points 16. Stay under the gimbal's stated maximum, such as 24 pounds, because exceeding it may cause mechanical failure 17.

Ask a follow-up

Where can I mount rods and accessories on my dovetail or baseplate?9 threads · latest 2013

In short

Put rods on a separate universal baseplate between dovetail and camera, or drill and tap them into the dovetail plate 18. Heavy accessories go on the solid lower dovetail directly under the post 19.

How the pros do it

Use the solid dovetail on the bottom of Tiffen rigs for heavy accessories like gyroscopes and counterweights, directly under the post 19. On the Zephyr and Archer that lower dovetail is narrower than on the large rigs 19.
Add a dovetail grabber (female dovetail clamp) on the lower dovetail to get a platform for more accessories 19. The Antlers version includes an adapter that fits both dovetail widths 19.
For rods on a FlyerLE, know that the dovetail plate is too narrow for standard 60mm centered rods without extra bracketing 20. A Zacuto Universal baseplate gives you 15mm rods on lighter cameras without modifying the dovetail 20.
Stack that Zacuto baseplate between the standard plate and the weighted plate, using the 1/4x20 threaded holes on its bottom 20. Zacuto also sells adapters between 3/8x16 and 1/4x20 20.
A separate rod baseplate lets you switch between Steadicam® and other supports faster without recalibrating the focus motor 18. If you go direct instead, flat-sided pro rods can be drilled and tapped into existing plates for the focus motor 18.
For small accessories, screw a cheeseplate into the 1/4-20 insert under the sled, or mount one between the rods, and fix gear with velcro or 3M Dual Lock 19 21. Keep accessories close to the center post, with their center of gravity on the post axis, to make static and dynamic balance easier 21.

Ask a follow-up

What's the fastest way to swap my camera between tripod and rig?6 threads · latest 2026

In short

Use a plate that fits both your stabilizer and the tripod head, and plan the rig with your focus puller so little needs rebuilding 22 23. With that prep the swap takes under three minutes 23.

How the pros do it

Get a quick-release plate that works on both the top stage and the head, such as ARRI plates that slide straight from the top stage to the head's ARRI plate 23. This is very fast with the BUD-1 in the ARRI accessory system 23.
Other setups reported: Cam-Jam Cheese Plate with SOS plate, SAM-7 or SAM-8 with Betz Quick Release, or a custom plate under an ARRI cage 23. Cat Griller is lightweight and preferred for most setups unless you hand-hold often 24.
Put the follow-focus motors on the upper rods so they never need repositioning 23. Consider a second wireless transmitter bracket for the studio and Steadicam® positions 23.
Keep the sled fully cabled and assembled nearby 23. Mark the baseplate and dovetail adapter so the body sits roughly balanced on first mounting, and use a cable clamp compendium (LMB) so you don't rebuild the rig between modes 23.
Decide the mode before rehearsal, because last-minute mode switches eat the most time 23. Then remove the viewfinder, handle and monitors, and attach the wireless transmitter to the Steadicam® monitor via quick-release 23.
Don't stack extra dovetail plates on the top stage, since that adds weight and height 24. Check clearances too: the Cat Griller is too wide for Pilot dovetail plates 25, and Manfrotto 577 and 357 levers can collide with gear above or below 25.

Caution

Carbon fiber support rods may be more prone to stress damage than metal rods when follow focus motors or similar gear clamp onto them 27.

What changed

Earlier, in 2009, operators screwed a tripod plate into the bottom of the dovetail to get to sticks 26, while today, in 2026, a plate that fits both stabilizer and studio mount is standard and the swap takes under three minutes with prep 22 23.

Ask a follow-up

How do I eliminate vibration coming from my plate or mount?6 threads · latest 2026

In short

Find the loose or flexing joint and take it out of the chain, testing one component at a time 28. If a worn ARRI dovetail is the culprit, bypass it with a plate mounted directly under the camera 29.

How the pros do it

Do a squeeze test on the mounted baseplate to feel flex in the top stage and plate 30. Then tighten all fasteners and bearing pre-loads 30.
Eliminate components one at a time and test with an empty card between takes 28. Power the camera from the sled and remove the camera battery bracket, since those brackets are the most common source 28.
Put soft hook-and-loop (pile side) on Gold-Mount and AB battery plates at the sled 28. Loose-tolerance Anton Bauer Gold Mounts are a known vibration source and need soft velcro or similar damping 31.
Close the lever fully on ARRI base plates 28. On SAM plate systems (BUD-3) you can tighten the lever further with the small gear wheel 28. On PRO rigs, check the center tube locking ring and the four small screws (about #4-40) under the topstage daily 28.
If the dovetail is worn and shows play against the ARRI bridge plate, mount the small ARRI front plate (K2.0034179) directly under the camera and attach your Steadicam® plate to it 29. A BUD plate works if the camera has a BUD clamp on its underside 29.
With plastic camera bodies on adapter plates, push wedges between the sliding baseplate and the adapter supports to remove the flex point 31. On a Zephyr, add a stiffening system instead of swapping the baseplate, for example a Zalex baseplate with 15mm rod brackets 32.

Opinions differ here

Operators split on the main cause 28. One side blames the camera and battery configuration 28. Another blames arm and running technique, or Volt belt tension that is too low 28. An older view treats high-frequency vibration as structural resonance rather than operator technique 30.

What changed

Earlier in 2007 operators put vibration down to top stage and baseplate rigidity and looked at stiffer stages like the DB III 30 33, today in 2025 and 2026 they check loose joints, battery plates, Volt belt tension and worn ARRI dovetail play 28 29.

Ask a follow-up

What mounting screws do I need to attach my camera?5 threads · latest 2016

In short

A Steadicam® Flyer24 LE base plate takes a 1/4-20 screw 34, while the Panavision Lightweight II needs non-standard 10-32 screws 35.

How the pros do it

Standard baseplate systems use 3/8 inch screws 35, and 1/4-20 and 3/8-16 are the common camera sizes 36 37.
It takes 10-32 screws, not the typical 3/8 inch 35.
It needs eight flathead screws with the proper pitch, and shipments often come with only four or the wrong variants 35.
If you add 3/4 inch risers on the Lightweight II, you need 10-32 screws that run 3/4 inch longer than standard 35.
If you lose a screw, a button cap screw works as a replacement on the Flyer24 LE base plate 34. Test several lengths from a hardware store to find the right one 34.
A 1/2 inch low-head 3/8-16 screw bottoms out in a camera body with less than 1/2 inch of thread 36, and slot-based plates need slotted heads 36. For long unthreaded shafts that clear the plate thickness, you may have to go to industrial suppliers 37.

Caution

Stainless steel screws fail sooner than high carbon steel screws 36. A screw that bottoms out in a shallow thread will not seat properly in the camera body 36.

Ask a follow-up

How do I add batteries or power to my camera plate?5 threads · latest 2013

In short

On a small camera, run it off its own batteries and add a battery grip 38. If you need external power, mount an Anton Bauer plate on a sliding base plate or a clamp and feed the camera by cable 39 40.

How the pros do it

With a DSLR like the Canon 7D, use the camera's internal batteries rather than the sled battery system 38. Add a battery grip for more capacity and swaps without pulling the camera off the rig 38.
Put a Manfrotto quick release plate under the camera 38. You can remove and reattach it for battery changes without losing your balance 38.
For external power on a PRO I, mount a sliding base plate with quick release on the bottom and put an Anton Bauer battery mount on it 39. Power goes to the camera by cable, so you don't touch the internal rig wiring 39.
Another PRO I option is a gold mount on the recording bracket with external cabling to the camera 39.
On a Pro 1 Lite base, clamp to the existing battery post and attach a battery plate 40. Use a spacer to fit a 1.5 inch clamp on the 1.25 inch grey post 40. Run a P-Tap to P-Tap cable from the front plate to the rear so the batteries work in parallel 40.
If the camera stage has only one power port, as on the FlyerLE, split it with a custom 3-pin Lemo breakout box or a Lemo splitter made for the Flyer and FlyerLE 41. A Sony F3 can run on its own batteries while the port feeds the focus motor and video transmitter 41.

Caution

Check with the manufacturer that your total power draw stays within the sled's specs before you add anything 41. Respect the weight limits, because overloading the FlyerLE gimbal and post degrades performance and can damage equipment 41.

Ask a follow-up

Sources 41

All 41 sources

What operators found

Still argued about

Often in the same threads

Dovetail Plate24, Follow Focus22, Top Stage14, Zephyr13, ALEXA 353, MDR8, Low Mode18, FI+Z3, BFD4, Master Series3, Modulus3, Donkey Box4

All threads

Ask about Base PlateThe answer cites the archive