Ultra Vest

39 threads in the archive

Ultra Vest in the catalogSpecs and owners

Based on 42 threads · 24 cited

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The Ultra Vest is a Steadicam® vest, and the first thing to get right is fit, so try it under real working conditions before you buy 1. Check your sled's socket connection too: standard socket blocks let you mix vests and arms, but the Flyer LE does not 14. Expect to tweak it as you go, because buckles that dig in, clasps that squeak and cracked plastic all have simple fixes 11 21 18.

The questions 8

Which vest should I choose for my body size, comfort and operator type?6 threads · latest 2024

In short

Pick by fit first and try the vest under real working conditions before you buy 1. Compact vests suit small frames, standard vests suit average builds, and modular vests like the Exovest or xSpine suit you if you want front or back mounting 2 3.

How the pros do it

A compact vest is about 2 inches shorter in the top and about 3 inches shorter in the center spar than a standard vest 4.
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Should I use a front-mounted or back-mounted vest to reduce back strain?5 threads · latest 2022

In short

Go back-mounted if back strain is your problem, because it carries the load on your hips and supports your lower back 5 6. Stay front-mounted for tight spaces, stairs and running shots, and then add back support 7 6.

How the pros do it

Pick a back-mounted vest for long takes, low mode and lock-offs, since these are more sustainable on your lower back 7.
Expect the load to sit on your hip bones, with the vest pressing into your lumbar spine instead of compressing it 5.
Get the fit exact, because an ill-fitting back-mounted vest causes leg tingling and discomfort 5.
If you stay front-mounted, wear a low-profile lifting belt under the vest, which costs around $20-60 USD 8. Enlarge the lumbar pad with rigid plastic backing and closed-cell foam 8. Add diagonal cross-straps from the shoulder blade to the opposite hip pad 8.
Adjust vest, sled and socket block first, before you rely on extra back support 8.
Consider carrying both types or a dual-mount vest, so you can use the front mount in tight spots and the back mount for long days 6.

Caution

Leg tingling, numbness and nerve compression can come with either vest type, and the long-term effects are not fully understood 7. A wide back-mounted vest with its carbon arm and hardware can also damage set pieces in tight spaces 6.

Opinions differ here

Operators split on lifting belts under a front-mounted vest: one side says a belt reduces fatigue and protects the lower back 8, while the other says continuous use may weaken your back muscles, so some wear it only in the final hours of long days 8.

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How do I adjust or fix my socket block on my vest?4 threads · latest 2023

In short

If the block slips, tighten the small screws on the opposite side of the mounting knobs 9. If you want it lower, trim plastic from the waist panel for about a quarter inch 10.

How the pros do it

Tighten the small screws on the opposite side of the mounting knobs first 9.
Move the steel block that opposes the wedge clamp to its narrowest position relative to the wedge, which improves clamping tension 9.
If it still slips, line the interior rails of the sliding plate with gaff tape 9. It adds thickness and friction, but it is a workaround, not a proper design fix 9.
Check the small screws holding the socket block assembly, because they can bend and break over time 9.
To lower the block on an Ultra 2, trim plastic from the waist panel for about one-quarter inch with no structural changes 10.
Moving the waist assembly to the back of the center spar lowers it more and needs longer fasteners 10. Expect the vertical spar to press on your sternum when you tighten the chest straps 10.

Caution

Slippage can be an early warning that the small screws holding the socket block assembly are failing, since they can bend and break 9. Don't make up for a lowered block with a much longer arm post on heavy camera loads, and keep any increase to about one inch 10.

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Why do my vest buckles dig in, and how do I fix them?4 threads · latest 2023

In short

Chest-strap ratchet buckles dig into your ribs when the padding doesn't extend far enough forward to lift them off your body 11. You can fix it with longer velcro straps, extra spar pads, or, for waist buckles that foul the stiffening block, by moving the holes inward about 1.5 inches 11 12.

How the pros do it

Lengthen the velcro straps so the ratchet buckle sits forward of the padding, which flattens the pull angle and eases chest pressure 11.
Tuck extra spar pads under the chest straps by slipping velcro tabs between the existing pads and the plastic shell 11.
If the aluminum stiffening block interferes with the strap guide at the end of the waist pad, relocate the waist ratchet buckle holes inward by about 1.5 inches 12.
Moving the buckles toward the center spar works because the load path runs between the new hole and the spar connector, not downstream of the new hole 12.
For a hardware upgrade, source ratchet buckles from the manufacturer or its agents, climbing retailers, or industrial suppliers like Grainger and McMaster 13.
Have a cobbler or shoe repair shop with heavy-duty sewing equipment install ratchet hardware and fastex connectors, and replace velcro where you can to keep the fit secure 13.

Caution

Nobody ran a structural analysis on the relocated buckle holes, and the fix may not apply to all vest models or materials 12.

What changed

Earlier, in 2004, ratchet buckles were added to vests as a cheap fit upgrade 13, today, in 2023, operators move them inward about 1.5 inches to clear the stiffening block 12.

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Will my Ultra vest work with a given arm and sled setup?5 threads · latest 2013

In short

It comes down to the sled's socket connection: standard socket blocks let you mix vests and arms, while the Flyer LE does not 14. An Ultra vest has been paired with a G-50 arm on an SK sled and sold in a Clipper 24 setup 15 16.

How the pros do it

Check the sled's connection first, because only rigs with standard socket blocks can be upgraded piece by piece 14.
Rule out the Flyer LE, since it uses a different connection than larger rigs and won't take vests and arms from other systems 14.
Copy combinations that have worked: a TV station ran an SK sled with a used G-50 arm and Ultra vest 15, and a Clipper 24 setup was priced with an Ultra vest 16.
Match the arm to the payload, because the G-50 is rated at 22.5 kg and heavier 24-volt cameras with extra battery plates max it out 16. For film work with fully loaded cameras, go to the G-70 16.
If you buy used, fly it on both arm and vest 17. Have the manufacturer or an authorized service center inspect it before you pay 17.

Opinions differ here

The SK sled with a G-50 arm and Ultra vest worked for a local TV station, and an SK2 dual-arm upgrade works once the monitor is replaced and the battery repositioned 15. Other users say a two-stage arm conversion does not meaningfully reduce the weight burden of the SK system 15.

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How do I repair cracked or broken plastic parts on my Ultra vest?3 threads · latest 2007

In short

For a cracked waistband, drill a small hole at the end of the crack as a temporary field fix 18. For broken buckles, swap in side release clasps, ski-boot style buckles or Tiffen replacements 19.

How the pros do it

Drill a small hole at the end of a developing waistband crack to spread the stress and slow the cracking 18. Treat it as temporary, not permanent 18.
If a plastic buckle breaks, drill holes and use hex bolts instead of rivets as a temporary repair 19.
Replace side release clasps with parts from a sporting goods retailer for under five dollars 19. Ski-boot style buckles for current Ultra vests run about ten dollars, and Tiffen also sells replacement plastic buckles 19.
If you buy generic buckles, don't go cheap, because cheaper ones turn brittle and crack 20. Fastex buckles are reliable, and generic equivalents from reputable suppliers work comparably well 20.
For a rebuilt waistband, black nylon has lasted better than the standard plastic 18. Kevlar reinforcement is durable but expensive, and leather also lasts longer than plastic 18.
Check the front plastic panel, because it can be structural and may need full replacement instead of a patch 19. Some users got no-cost manufacturer repairs within a year of purchase 19.

What changed

Earlier (2004), operators sourced generic Fastex-type buckles and rebuilt waistbands from nylon or leather 18 20, today (2007) you can buy side release clasps, ski-boot buckles or Tiffen replacement buckles 19.

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How do I stop my vest clasps and buckles from squeaking and clicking?2 threads · latest 2007

In short

Tighten loose hardware, clean the vest out, then treat the clasps with ACF 50 oil or shrink wrap 21. Lube alone usually only buys you weeks, so expect to redo it 21.

How the pros do it

Find where the noise comes from first, because clicking usually comes from loose riveted connections and aluminum parts with play that shift when the sled is held away from the vest 21.
Tighten the screws on the backplates and the knobs on the carbon arms, which fixes squeaking on some models 21.
Strip the vest down and clean it, since dust and debris in the joints and behind the screws cause squeaking and a full disassembly and clean removes it 22.
Put ACF 50 oil on the quick-release clasps, which cut noise for about eight weeks depending on workload 21.
Try shrink wrap around the shoulder clasps to cut movement between the parts and kill the clasp noise 21. The thread doesn't say exactly where on the clip housing it goes 21.
Re-clean the vest every two months so the squeaks don't come back 22. For tight spots, a paraffin-based chain lube or a needle-point applicator lube may get in better than standard lube 21.

What changed

Earlier (2006) silicone grease or PTFE products were said to eliminate vest squeaking 22, today (2007) reports say silicone grease and PTFE spray did not resolve clasp noise 21.

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Where can I get replacement belly plates for my vest?2 threads · latest 2004

In short

Go through the manufacturer's parts department for Master Series and Ultra vests 23. For older vests, a specialist who hand-cuts plates is another route 24.

How the pros do it

Call the manufacturer's parts department for Master Series and Ultra vest belly plates 23.
Factory suppliers list replacement belly plates at about $54 per piece 24.
For older vest models, ask a specialist who hand-cuts and forms custom plastic pieces 24.
Custom plates in flexible, durable plastic are lighter than leather and cause no noise or odor issues 24.
Ask about a warranty, because plastic replacement parts can come with free replacement if they split during normal use 24.
If you want to make your own, a 4 by 8 foot puckboard sheet costs about $25 from a plastics supplier 23. Shape it with a heat gun, cut it with a Dremel or utility knife, and mold it while warm 23.

Opinions differ here

One operator says puckboard worked as a substitute on older vests when replacing the plate 23. Another says the original high-grade, precision-formed polypropylene is preferable 23. Nobody confirmed that puckboard performs identically over the long term 23.

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Sources 24

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What operators found

Still argued about

Often in the same threads

Zephyr6, Master Series8, G-704, Artemis2, Top Stage2, Low Mode3, Hard Mount2

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