Master Series
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A used Master Series rig can be a smart first big rig if you're on a budget, can handle your own repairs, and the rig has been checked and brought up to HD 123. Parts and manufacturer support are gone for it, so you carry the risk yourself 3. If you're starting out, do a workshop first, then buy a used pro Steadicam® rig like a Master Series sled and arm, and put your money into the arm and vest first 910.
The questions 10
Is a used Master Series rig worth buying as a first big rig?10 threads · latest 2023
In short
Yes, if you're on a budget, can handle your own repairs, and the rig has been checked and brought up to HD 123. Parts and manufacturer support are gone, so you carry the risk yourself 3.
How the pros do it
- Bring an experienced operator and test fly the rig in person, preferably from a local seller 45.
- Check that the post and gimbal run smoothly without grinding, and that all wiring and power outputs work 3. Confirm the monitor powers on 4.
- Test gimbal static balance on a 3-4 second drop time, then rotate it 180 degrees and confirm it still balances 6.
- Check the video path, because Master Series sleds were built for analog NTSC and PAL and need modification to pass HD-SDI 2. Older SDI ports are 50 Ohm but 75 Ohm is required, and many have been upgraded 3. Evaluate anyone else's custom HD modification carefully 2.
- Weigh the sled and k-section, because Master Series sleds are heavier than modern rigs and the k-section acts as a sail in the wind 2. Removing unused internal electronics from the k-section can cut weight 2. The arm carries roughly 30 to 60 lbs 3.
- Skip the Volt retrofit at first, because most operators advise waiting several years 3. The Volt Kit costs about 13,000 GBP and the manufacturer does not assist with the retrofit 3.
Exceeding a rig's design payload can cause gimbal failure, vibration and reduced stiffness 8. Heavy-duty socket blocks on a Flyer vest will likely make the vest clasps fail under load 8.
Opinions differ here
Some operators call the Master Series a solid entry point into larger rigs that can earn money 3, while others consider 10,000 GBP for the complete rig somewhat high and point to the lighter Clipper 2 3. On support, some users report recent improvements in customer service while others cite older bad experiences 1.
What changed
Earlier, in 2009, Master Series gear came with local dealer support through Tiffen distributors in Europe 7, today, in 2023, no original parts are available and the manufacturer and major service partners no longer maintain it 3.
What rig should I buy to start out on a budget?9 threads · latest 2026
In short
Do a workshop first, then buy a used professional rig, such as a Master Series sled and arm or a Flyer, rather than a cheap new budget brand 910. Put your money into the arm and vest first 10.
How the pros do it
- Attend a workshop before you spend anything, and try several rigs there 1112. Where no workshop exists locally, regional dealers and service partners can organize training and demo rigs 9.
- Look at a used Steadicam® Master sled and arm, possibly refurbished by a service shop 9. In 2019 used Master sleds went for 11,000 to 12,000 dollars if they were in good working order 12.
- If money is tighter, a used Steadicam® Flyer was bought for about 1,200 USD 9. Flyer or Zephyr is also named as an intermediate step before a bigger rig 13.
- With around 15,000 USD, used pro rigs are now as affordable as ever 10. Complete Ultra-2 kits go for about 14,500 USD, and full EFP rigs for about 8,000 USD 10.
- The first sled can be inexpensive if it works, so put your money into a high-capacity arm and a quality vest for a full career 10. Upgrade the sled and accessories step by step 10.
- Budget for the extras on top of the rig: batteries, cables, stands or carts, and storage cases 12. In 2009 one thread suggested 5,000 to 10,000 dollars for accessories and cables 14.
Opinions differ here
Most operators advise against Rever EVO and similar budget brands such as Laing and Proaim, citing cast parts, poorly sealed bearings and cheap fasteners 10. One academic user of the Rever predecessor found it adequate for the price, though the vest needed modification and fasteners needed grease and threadlock 10. Chinese complete rigs like the Thanos Pro Cine are called solid by some users, but their longevity is contested 9. Operators also disagree on whether to attend a workshop before buying a professional rig or buy the equipment first 11.
What changed
Earlier, in 2009, operators pointed beginners to small used rigs like the Flyer or Archer and warned that used EFP rigs needed many replacement parts 14, today, in 2026, the advice is that high-quality used pro rigs are as affordable as ever and that you should put your money into arm and vest 10.
How do I fix play in my Master Series gimbal?7 threads · latest 2026
In short
Take off the dust caps and turn the slot-head adjustment screws counterclockwise to remove play, seating them only snugly 15. Then check the 180-degree pan balance at a 2 to 3 second drop time 15.
How the pros do it
- Pop off the black dust caps on both sides of the yoke with a small flathead screwdriver 15. Under each cap sit a bearing and a slot-head adjustment screw 15.
- The screws work in reverse: turning counterclockwise pushes the screw against the bearing and removes play 15.
- Measure the gap between the yoke sides and the pan bearing housing with calipers 15. Adjust both sides equally and seat the screws only snugly 15.
- Balance the sled with fixed weight, such as a weight cage, using a spirit level on the tilt axis at a 2 to 3 second drop time 15. Point the lens toward one screw, pan 180 degrees and let it settle 15.
- Mark the deeper side of the yoke 15. Loosen the screw on the high side about a quarter turn clockwise, tighten the deeper side's screw the same amount counterclockwise, and repeat in small steps until it balances 15. Slower drop times need finer corrections 15.
- If you are swapping bearings instead, the spec named for the Master Series gimbal is 61809ZZ 16.
Over-tightening the adjustment screws jams the very small bearings and causes permanent damage 15. Seat them snugly and no more 15.
Opinions differ here
Some operators adjust the yoke screws themselves, using calipers and small quarter-turn steps 15. Others sent the gimbal to a service provider or replaced it rather than attempt the adjustment 15.
How do I set up low mode on my Master Series sled?8 threads · latest 2019
In short
Fit an F-bracket, which lowers the camera post by about 12 inches on a Master Series rig 17. Pin it through the gimbal handle 18.
How the pros do it
- Start with the F-bracket, which drops the camera post by approximately 12 inches 17. The Master Series low mode F-bracket needs a connecting rod with a hole to attach to the gimbal yoke 19.
- If the rod is missing, a machinist can fabricate one, or you can try a spare arm post 19. Neither fix is confirmed as a working alternative 19.
- Run a pin through the gimbal handle, because clamping or set screws alone are not enough with an F-bracket or J-bracket 18. If you drill the handle, do it on a mill, not freehand, and go all the way through for double shear 18. A 3/16 inch hole takes a #10 hardened screw or quick pin 18.
- Use the bracket to put the arm's working end into the gap between camera and battery, so the arm does not hit the camera when you fly heavy cameras close to the stage 18.
- For more height, combine a long arm post with a D-bracket, cut the camera package weight, or add weight to the sled base 17. Gimbal inversion with a special screw is another option, if you have the screw 17.
- On a lightweight camera like an Alexa Mini, a Master series topstage can vibrate in low mode 20. Clamp the dovetail down firmly with the stage head upright, and use wedges between the dovetail plate and the nosebox or stage top only as an emergency fix 20. Service the topstage annually 20.
Flying upside down without proper low-mode brackets risks mag adaptor damage, battery loss, mag disengagement and other equipment failures 21. A missing pin through the gimbal handle is a safety problem 18.
What weight can a Master arm carry?8 threads · latest 2017
In short
A Master arm carries about 65 to 67 pounds gross, counting camera, sled and everything mounted 22. Detuned for light loads, it goes down to around 37 pounds 23.
How the pros do it
- Count the whole rig, not just the camera, against the 65 to 67 pound gross limit 22.
- Subtract the sled and batteries from the arm's capacity to get your real camera payload 23.
- Expect about 65 pounds at maximum before detuning and about 37 pounds at minimum, a range of roughly 25 pounds 23.
- Tune the arm with an Allen wrench for heavier or lighter loads, separate from the standard red control knobs 22.
- If the camera is too light, as with an early RED EPIC, add ballast, up to three batteries plus extra weights, to reach the arm's working weight range 24.
- Use lithium-ion batteries and compact monitors to leave more of the arm's capacity for the camera 23.
How do I convert my Master Series sled to Anton Bauer or V-lock?9 threads · latest 2013
In short
You swap the battery mount and join the sled's red and black wires to the new plate 2526. Expect to drill holes or fabricate a bracket, or buy an adapter plate 2726.
How the pros do it
- Pick your standard first by checking which chargers you already own and which battery type the rental houses in your region use 28.
- Get the hardware: a gold mount plate with a custom adapter plate, or a V-mount or AB adapter that may need four drilled mounting holes 2927.
- Wire it with red to positive and black to negative 27. On a CP mount, only the black and red wires are needed for 12V 25.
- Leave the three extra CP wires alone, because they belong to the battery display system and don't power anything 25. The thinner wires from the cells carry battery data like charge level and current draw 26.
- If you don't want to rewire, use an adapter plate that converts between mount types 26. The hard part is the bracket for the new battery shape 26.
- Another route is a V-lock battery on the monitor, powering the monitor from it 27. You can also run Master and V-lock batteries together, which helps with rented camera gear 27.
Double-check red and black before you power up 27. Reversed wires keep voltage off the camera connectors on a 24V conversion, and it only stayed free of permanent damage because it was caught immediately 30.
What changed
Earlier, in 2005, the conversion meant buying a gold mount and a custom-fabricated adapter plate 29, today, in 2010, you can replace the battery adapter with a V-mount or AB adapter and drill four holes 27.
How do I adjust lift, springs and load on my Master arm?7 threads · latest 2016
In short
Set lift so the arm sections hang 5 to 10 degrees above horizontal, then set ride by feel 31. The Master arm is built for a 20 to 45 pound payload, and rubber bands or added weight only come in once the knob runs out of range 32.
How the pros do it
- Set the lift adjustment so the arm sections hang slightly above horizontal, typically 5 to 10 degrees 31. Both sections should track together and pass through horizontal together, not at an angle 31.
- Set ride by unscrewing the ride knob while you boom up and down until it starts to lock, then screw it back in a couple of turns 31. Heavier rigs need more iso-elastic response, so more threads show on the ride screw 31.
- Recheck lift after touching ride, because the two controls interact a little 31. Adjust both sections to reach their bottom limit at the same time, which cuts the jolts on slow moves 33.
- Know the range: the Master and Ultra take a 20 to 45 pound payload, and the total with the sled runs around 40 to 65 pounds 32. Only add rubber bands once the adjustment knob has hit the end of its normal range 32.
- For rubber bands, run them diagonally across the arm 32. Opposite the internal springs adds lifting power, and other positions lower the minimum load 32. Lower minimums make the arm less isoelastic and more reactive, so test it 32.
- With a very light camera, add weight to the camera or support instead of modifying the arm 32. A purpose-made weight plate on the dovetail beats a homemade stack for looks and function on set 34. To detune the springs, use thick slotted washers, one per arm section, and don't twist the cables 35.
Very light arms like the Pilot or Flyer risk bearing and structural failure if you add rubber bands to raise lift capacity 32. Substantial rubber bands on light arm models can cause structural damage 32.
Opinions differ here
Operators split on how to handle ride 31. Some leave ride at an extreme setting and change only lift when rig weight changes between jobs 31. One experienced operator reports that maximum iso-elasticity hurts very light rigs and backs it off slightly 31.
Why does my Master arm clunk, squeak or stick?6 threads · latest 2020
In short
Clunks at the ends of boom travel usually come from the bottom section snapping or the elbow hitting the arm section 3637. Sticking at the extremes is often worn rubber bumper stops inside the arm, and squeaks come from the springs or the vest clasps 383940.
How the pros do it
- If the bottom section clunks at the top or bottom of the boom range, raise the arm tension setting 36. Let the upper arm section lead, which helps avoid the end-point snap 36.
- If the elbow clunks against the arm section nearest the vest, look for an unpadded side 37. Stick self-adhesive rubber pads or door bumpers on it, but treat that as a workaround, not a factory fix 37.
- If the arm sticks at the top and bottom with a back-mounted vest, push the sled outward slightly at the ends of the boom range 38. Tension alone may not cure it when the bumper stops are worn, so send it for professional service 38.
- For squeaking from the crane springs, clean them with a horse hair paint brush 39. For squeaks at the vest shoulder clasps, ACF 50 oil on the quick-release clasps quiets them for about eight weeks depending on workload 40. Shrink wrap around the shoulder clasps can also stop clasp noise 40.
- Tighten the screws on the backplates and the knobs on carbon arms, since that cured squeaking in some models 40. Silicone grease and PTFE spray did not fix clasp noise in reported cases 40.
- For a single click in the mid-to-upper boom range, pull the arm covers to see if springs rub on badly placed cover spacers 41. A misaligned safety cable pin touching the spring coils or a dry weight adjustment knob can also click 41.
The arm contains high-energy springs and complex internals, so get manufacturer service before you attempt disassembly 41.
Opinions differ here
On the elbow clunk, one side says add rubber pads to the unprotected side to dampen the impact 37. Others questioned whether that contact is normal for the arm at all, and the thread never settled whether both sides should have equal padding from the factory 37.
How do I add HD-SDI video to my Master Series sled?6 threads · latest 2018
In short
Either re-terminate the existing composite coax in the post with BNC connectors 42, or run a new RG179 75 ohm coax alongside the wire bundle 43. Expect to lose the onboard digital level and frame lines on the HD feed 43.
How the pros do it
- Disconnect the composite cables from the signal processing and splitter, then route them straight to BNC connectors at the nose and the bottom electronics 42.
- If you'd rather add new cable, run RG179 75 ohm coax next to the existing wire bundle from the top stage to the K-section 43. Terminate it at an available SD-BNC or a new female chassis BNC in the existing opening 43.
- For two independent HD-SDI feeds, keep the nose-mounted BNC and drill an extra hole on the nose side for a second BNC 42.
- If you convert the 4-pin Hirose composite line, keep the replacement coax as short as possible in the front section 44. At the lower stage, swap one of the three existing BNCs for an HD-style BNC 44.
- If you run lines down the post to a connector on the base, leave enough slack for the post to telescope 45.
- Add an external HD-compatible bubble level, or use the frame line software built into many LCD monitors, because the onboard electronics don't process the HD signal 43.
If you feed a downconverter from sled power, note that some Blackmagic units may be damaged by the unregulated power from freshly charged batteries, while Decimator units tolerate a broader voltage range 47. If you're uncomfortable working inside the electronics, take the sled to a professional service 43.
What changed
Earlier (2008), retrofitting HD onto the Master Series Broadcast sled was considered difficult with no definitive solution 46, today (2013-2014) operators re-terminate existing coax with BNCs or run a new RG179 line 4243.
Where can I get replacement buckles or parts for my Master vest?6 threads · latest 2017
In short
Start with the manufacturer, which supplies replacement ratchet buckles that retrofit to older vests 48. Third-party repair services and outside suppliers are the fallback for older gear 4950.
How the pros do it
- Order replacement ratchet buckles from the manufacturer, since they can be retrofitted to older vests 48. The new ones need only one screw per attachment point instead of two 48.
- For ratchet straps, contact the manufacturer directly or try a UK supplier 50. Snowboard binding straps or roller sports distributors are other sources 50.
- On an old vest, replace all four ratchet straps at once 50.
- For a plain broken buckle, use a Fastex buckle of matching width, typically 2 inches at the shoulders 49. Outdoor outfitters, fabric stores and online retailers carry them 49. Check first whether only the male part is damaged, because the female part may still take a new male one 49.
- For a cracked waist strip or belly plate, ask the manufacturer's parts department 51. That part cost around $145 in 2010 52. A local plastics fabrication service can also make a replacement 52.
- If your vest is discontinued, the manufacturer still offers parts and factory repairs, and third-party repair services are an option 49.
Opinions differ here
On the waist belt plate, one operator says puckboard, the hockey-rink plastic, worked as a substitute on older vests and costs about $25 for a 4 by 8 foot sheet 51. Another argues the original high-grade polypropylene is precision-formed and preferable 51.
What changed
Earlier, in 2010, operators swapped broken buckles for Fastex buckles from outdoor and fabric shops 49, today, as of 2016, the manufacturer sells replacement ratchet buckles that retrofit to older Master vests 48.
Sources 52
- 1Practical limitations and user experiences with Master Series camera stabilization rigsDisputed
- 2Evaluating used Steadicam® Master Series rigs versus newer systems for operators starting out
- 3Buying a 1994 Steadicam® Master Series complete rig for approximately 10,000 GBP as a first rig, and retrofitting it with Volt electronics.Disputed
- 4Evaluation criteria for purchasing used Steadicam® equipment
- 5Purchasing used Steadicam® systems and avoiding impulsive buying decisions
- 6Evaluating the purchase of a used ActionCam stabilizer rig as a first system
- 7Choosing between vintage Master series and new Movcam Pro Max camera sleds for a beginner operator
- 8Guidance for purchasing a used stabilizer rig within a limited budget
All 52 sources
- 9Choosing an entry-to-advanced stabilizer rig in the 3,000–5,000 USD budget rangeDisputed
- 10Entry-level stabilizer strategy on a 15,000 USD budget: Rever EVO versus used Artemis 2 or M2 plus Volt, in a market with limited secondhand availability.Disputed
- 11Choosing between upgrading an older ProVid-2 kit or investing in a professional rig: workshop-first versus equipment-first approach for beginners.Disputed
- 12Selecting a stabilizing camera rig within a 15,000 dollar budget for Alexa Mini and RED camera workDisputed
- 13Choosing a first major stabilizer rig: Tiffen Steadicam®, GPI PRO, or small-maker sled (Calicocam), budget and features considered.Disputed
- 14Starting a Steadicam® career on a limited budget with used rigs under $30,000Disputed
- 15Adjusting play in a Steadicam® Master Series gimbal yoke and balancing it for smooth 180-degree pan without tipping.Disputed
- 16Bearing specifications for Master Series gimbal replacement
- 17Methods to achieve lower camera positioning on a Master Series sled rig
- 18Drilling a hole in a gimbal handle to accommodate a low mode bracket pin
- 19Missing connecting rod for low mode F bracket gimbal yoke attachment
- 20Vibration issues with a topstage camera support system when used in low mode with lightweight cameras
- 21Attaching dovetail plates to Arri SR camera handles for low-mode operation and alternatives
- 22Maximum payload capacity of Master Series Steadicam® arm including all components
- 23Master Arm payload capacity and adjustability
- 24Weight management and mounting solutions for RED EPIC cinema cameras on Steadicam® rigs
- 25Adapting CP battery mount connectors to AB Gold Mount for 12V power
- 26Replacing batteries in a camera sled and converting from PAG to Gold Mount
- 27Converting Master Series Steadicam® battery mount from proprietary to V-lock standard
- 28Choosing between Anton Bauer and V-Lock battery systems for Steadicam® rigs
- 29Converting Master Series Steadicam® rig to Anton Bauer battery system
- 30Converting a Masters Series Broadcast sled power system from lower voltage to 24V capability
- 31Adjusting ride and lift controls on Steadicam® arms for proper balance and smooth operation
- 32Adjusting load capacity range of Ultra and Master series arms using rubber bands
- 33Arm bottom-out behavior and spring characteristics in stabilizer systemsDisputed
- 34Adding counterweight to a Master Series Steadicam® when practicing with lightweight cameras
- 35Adjustments and detuning procedures for Master Series steadicam arms
- 36Master series arm bottom section produces clunking sounds at boom end positions
- 37Master series arm elbow hitting arm section and creating noiseDisputed
- 38Master Series arm sticking at range extremes with back-mounted vest
- 39Maintenance and troubleshooting of camera crane arms and rigs
- 40Noise reduction methods for camera stabilizer vest quick-release clasps and connections
- 41Clicking noise from Ultra arm during boom movements in 6-spring model
- 42Upgrading a Master series sled with HD-SDI connections by repurposing existing composite video cables
- 43Adding HD-SDI video output to a Master Series Film Steadicam®
- 44Converting composite video line to HD on Master series camera sled
- 45Upgrading a Master Series sled to HD-SDI and Anton Bauer power
- 46HD-SDI signal compatibility with Ultra and Ultra2 sled video inputs
- 47Downconverter options for sending HD video signals through cinema camera sleds
- 48Replacement ratchet buckles for Master Series vest
- 49Repair and modification of camera stabilizer vests
- 50Sourcing replacement ratchet straps for an old Master series vest
- 51Replacement of the black plastic waist belt component on Master series camera vestsDisputed
- 52Repair options for cracked flexible plastic waist strip on Master Series vest
What operators found
- One operator reported breaking the clamp on an older Steadicam® Master Series sled by over-tightening during setups with payloads up to approximately 20 kg.2026 Facebook
- Most operators advise against Rever EVO and similar budget brands (Laing, Proaim) because they use cast rather than CNC components, feature inadequately sealed bearings, cheaper load-bearing parts, and inferior fasteners; operators struggle against these rigs and develop poor technique, and the industry perceives budget brands as less professional.2026 FacebookDisputed
- Multiple operators recommend reading the Steadicam® Operator's Handbook, meeting local operators for practice, and attending a workshop before purchasing a professional rig, as workshops teach skills transferable to any rig.2026 FacebookDisputed
- The black dust caps on both sides of the yoke can be removed with a small flathead screwdriver; damaged caps may be replaced with tape as they serve only as dust protection.2026 FacebookDisputed
- Such modifications are made as one-off custom orders and have also been requested for other sleds such as the Master Series.2025 Facebook
- For professional work with larger rigs, standard entry points are the Steadicam® Zephyr or Aero 30, or a secondhand large rig from circa 20 years ago (Tiffen Master Series or PRO 1), all in the range of USD 6,000–10,000; the Steadicam® Zephyr is a minimum, while the Tiffen Archer 2 is preferred, as it carries most modern builds and offers longevity.2024 FacebookDisputed
Still argued about
- 2026Entry-level stabilizer strategy on a 15,000 USD budget: Rever EVO versus used Artemis 2 or M2 plus Volt, in a market with limited secondhand availability.FacebookThe Steadicam Group
- 2026Choosing between upgrading an older ProVid-2 kit or investing in a professional rig: workshop-first versus equipment-first approach for beginners.FacebookSteadicam operators group
- 2026Adjusting play in a Steadicam® Master Series gimbal yoke and balancing it for smooth 180-degree pan without tipping.FacebookSteadicam operators group
Often in the same threads
Top Stage23, Artemis8, Gimbal Bearing5, Zephyr19, Low Mode17, Arm Post10, G-7010, Ultra Vest8, Dovetail Plate8, Monitor Bracket5, Docking Bracket5, Follow Focus14
All threads
- 2026Proper clamping force on gimbal saddle clamps with heavy cameras: risk of over-tighteningFacebookSteadicam operators group
- 2026Entry-level stabilizer strategy on a 15,000 USD budget: Rever EVO versus used Artemis 2 or M2 plus Volt, in a market with limited secondhand availability.DisputedFacebookThe Steadicam Group
- 2026Choosing between upgrading an older ProVid-2 kit or investing in a professional rig: workshop-first versus equipment-first approach for beginners.DisputedFacebookSteadicam operators group
- 2026Adjusting play in a Steadicam® Master Series gimbal yoke and balancing it for smooth 180-degree pan without tipping.DisputedFacebookSteadicam operators group
- 2025Modifying a Wave horizon stabilizer for direct PRO-Post mounting and balancing without a top stageFacebookThe Steadicam Group
- 2024Entry-level rig comparison: Glidecam X-22 at USD 2,200 versus lightweight alternatives and professional progression paths.DisputedFacebookThe Steadicam Group
- 2024Choosing an entry-to-advanced stabilizer rig in the 3,000–5,000 USD budget rangeDisputedFacebookSteadicam operators group
- 2023Buying a 1994 Steadicam® Master Series complete rig for approximately 10,000 GBP as a first rig, and retrofitting it with Volt electronics.DisputedFacebookThe Steadicam Group
- 2023Bearing specifications for Master Series gimbal replacementGimbal
- 2022Choosing a first major stabilizer rig: Tiffen Steadicam®, GPI PRO, or small-maker sled (Calicocam), budget and features considered.DisputedFacebookThe Steadicam Group
- 2021Extending arm posts on steadicam rigs for shorter operatorsSteadi-Newbies
- 2020Master series arm bottom section produces clunking sounds at boom end positionsArms
- 2020Evaluating the purchase of a used ActionCam stabilizer rig as a first systemGeneral Discussion
- 2020Identification of an unbranded stabilizer vest with unusual socket block designVests
- 2019Selecting a stabilizing camera rig within a 15,000 dollar budget for Alexa Mini and RED camera workDisputedSteadi-Newbies
- 2019Balancing a gimbal that tilts severely when rotated after servicingGimbal
- 2019Adapting camera plates for the DXL2 camera on Master Series stabilizer sledsSled
- 2019Steadiproline Raven stabilizer system performance and suitability for operatorsSteadi-Newbies
- 2019Vibration issues with a topstage camera support system when used in low mode with lightweight camerasGeneral Discussion
- 2019Upgrading from a lightweight stabilizer rig to a larger payload-capable systemSteadi-Newbies
- 2018Converting composite video line to HD on Master series camera sledGeneral Discussion
- 2018Evaluating used Steadicam Master Series rigs versus newer systems for operators starting outGeneral Discussion
- 2018Arm post sizes and compatibility across different gimbal and arm modelsArms
- 2017Selecting an appropriately sized stabilizer vest for a smaller-framed operatorVests
- 2017Glidecam X-45 sled performance, design limitations, and value assessmentSled
- 2017Sourcing replacement ratchet straps for an old Master series vestVests
- 2017Using onboard batteries versus sled-powered cables for monitor operationMonitors
- 2017Selecting Steadicam arms for use with multiple camera types of varying weightsArms
- 2017Steadimate A-30 compatibility with Ronin gimbal for camera stabilizationOperating
- 2016Master Arm payload capacity and adjustabilityArms
- 2016Adjustments and detuning procedures for Master Series steadicam armsArms
- 2016Replacement ratchet buckles for Master Series vestVests
- 2016Steadicam centre post and arm post diameter specifications across different modelsCenter Post
- 2015Lightweight stabilizer arm design with improved weight range and boom performanceDisputedArms
- 2015Adjustment mechanisms for Master Series Steadicam arm weight and float point settingsArms
- 2015Purchasing used Steadicam systems and avoiding impulsive buying decisionsSteadi-Newbies
- 2015Starting a Steadicam career with limited budget and building professional reputationDisputedGeneral Discussion
- 2014Early Steadicam rigs, modifications, and operator experiences from the 1980s and 1990sPicture and History Archives
- 2014Maintenance and safety concerns with older cinema camera armsArms
- 2014Preventing and addressing corrosion on master series armsArms